The Emperor Of Scent
By Chandler Burr
I am on chapter two and taking it slow.
So far I have been met wit h Madame Pillaud who was an old french bitch with an attitude. If she didn't like you, you got nothing. :) She had a hole in the wall shop full of old treasure from many years ago. As far back as the the 1800's!
I laughed out loud when I read about her question ("what is the main chord in "Bellogia"?") to the boy who was dying to learn and smell more Chypre, the old ones, the really real ones without co2 isolates and terpenes and sulfurous compounds..
Civet is the culture from the inner lining of a wild cat's anus, okay! Again with the wierd animal thing!
("carnation"), The boy answered her question and she opened her mind a little for him. Not by much.
Ah The French with their food treasures and perfect ideas on perfumery..almost..They do love their rot!
Dude, the fecal note is totally about French perfume. They like when a perfume makes you feel like you want to be with an unkept woman,,ha ha ha ha
"dirty whore bitch"
Madame, She would not sell you something if you made her mad in any way. So, people would go there and pay big bucks for a vintage Coty creation or a Dior..Dior.
Diorama has notes of musk, civet, castoreum and then all the other botanicals.
A chypre is animalistic but my goodness, wow!
Diorama took it to the next level. I would try that one, just the one time or maybe two..just to smell what happens.
Certain oils definitely have powerful reactions from people. When I wear sandalwood and vanilla together, people come closer. When I wear lotus with lavender, I get my emotional nature and really pick up other's moods. Yea..I am emotional. That is why I make such nice things!
I have never smelled Dior perfumes. So far, I love making with essential oils and my own ideas, my own idea, of what I think chypre should be.
It should be alluring, deep, sweet, sultry, warm, balsamic, powdery, dirty, bitter, intoxicating...
I have made many..The old whore is a chypre. You kind of do not like her at first and then, you do. a dab and your good. It is power.
Am I inspired to make perfume now? Of course I am. After all these years in blending, it is a natural transition. So far I have worked with The Old Whore for many years and I do adore Fougere blends. I love Fougere and I really must, I must explore more old whore.
More Chypre for me and more reading about how the smallest of atoms group together to make a molecule to smell like sulfur or peaches.
Peaches?? Yes, you see, modern day perfumes have so many chemicals because of man made atoms grouping together that they provide some sort of back round for the heavy oils. Also they are cheap and there are more profits for the producers. I do not care for the modern perfumes in any way and prefer to really explore the art of what happens when real apple blossoms meet with real lemon blossom. Then again, some things you can only enjoy off the tree and never in any other way is their beauty matched. It is like like music, scent. that it travels in waves like sound..soft pillowy waves of scent like music. That is why we hear words like "note" and "chord", yea?
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